Day 1 – Settling into Cape Town
We’d had a tiring 37-hour journey from San Diego to Cape Town and all I could think of was ‘I hope the hotel room will be ready so I can take a rest.’ I did not truly appreciate the location where the Marriot Hotel was until late afternoon when my husband, John, decided we had to go find a dinner place and check out the town.
We were staying at the waterfront and a short Uber ride later, we found ourselves in a bustling and vibrant area dotted with cool restaurants and shops and fun activities. Officially called the V & A Waterfront (named after Queen Victoria and her son Prince Alfred), it had evolved from a refreshment station for ships traveling along the spice route into a thriving commercial and entertainment hub.
Set against the backdrop of the majestic Table Mountain, the view was spectacular. It even had a bright yellow frame where visitors can pose for photos with the Table Mountain in the background. I highly recommend waiting for sunset to capture the shot. Breathtaking.
We had dinner at The Fish Market which offered a wide array of mouth-watering starters like deep-fried calamari, prawn spring rolls and beef ribs. The sushi menu was impressive, and they even had a platter of sushi sandwiches (?!?) We went for the Executive Platter which came with grilled prawns, hake fillets, fish cakes, deep-fried calamari, creamy garlic mussels accompanied by savory rice. The portion was more than enough for the two of us.
Day 2 – Exploring V&A Waterfront
The next morning, we headed back to the Waterfront to check out all the attractions that we missed the night before. This time, we opted for the canal boat that picked us up near the hotel and dropped us off at the waterfront. It was fun to see the sights from the canal and there were earplugs hanging from each window where you could get a commentary of the area the boat was passing through.
The Watershed
The first place we visited was the Watershed which was a retail center that offered art, craft and fashion, all African-made. The stores were more like stalls each displaying their particular product like jewelry, clothing, ceramics and carvings and in many cases, you could see the artisans making their wonderful creations on-site. As you can see from the photos we took, the products were of high quality and the handiwork immaculate. This is the best place to buy local handicrafts – much better than other stores or even galleries that we visited.
Zeitz MOCCA Art Museum
We then checked out the Zeitz MOCCA which was a multi-level art gallery showcasing the creative talents of local artists. The first painting we saw was a huge montage of political leaders featuring Nelson Mandela, President Obama and others. Most of the art were depictions of the artists’ lifestyles, both past and present. Many pieces were expressions of protests of some sort, taking political stands while others projected emotional feelings and struggles of the black community.
Cape Town Diamond Museum
We also did a walk-through of the Cape Town Diamond Museum (https://www.capetowndiamondmuseum.org). The Shimansky Diamond Experience tour was free but we had to make a reservation. It was an hour long tour during which we got to hear the story of South Africa’s diamond trade. We also got to see replicas of some very well-known diamonds like The Hope diamond and the infamous diamond that Richard Burton presented to Elizabeth Taylor. There was an on-site workshop where we were shown how diamond facets were cut as well as the polishing process. It is worth a visit.
The rest of the time we spent checking out the restaurants and just strolling along the promenade, watching the yachts come and go. There were guided tours to Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned and sunset cruises that we did not have time to enjoy.
Other places you can visit in the area are the Two Oceans Aquarium where you can see over 300 species of marine life. Maybe we will catch that another time.
Day 3 – Street Food and History Tour
We decided to book a food walk (10 Tastings of Cape Town with Locals) so we could sample the local fare with a seasoned guide. Gilbert, our guide, was a jovial South African who had been doing these tours for many years. He spoke good English and was very knowledgeable.
He started us off with a history lesson at The Attic which is located in the upper level of the City Hall. The Civic Collection Exhibition told the story of the development of Cape Town through photos, art and artefacts. There was even a map painted on the floor that showed pre and post-apartheid eras and the different sectors where whites, coloreds and blacks could live. There we learned about the lives of the enslaved people that were brought to the early settlement of Cape Town. Then there was the live sized statue of Mandela waving to the adoring crowds from the balcony after his historic speech and we could not resist posing next to him for a shot.
At the City Bowl Market, we had lunch at a small local eatery where we sampled pap, a beans and vegetable dish and boerewors (South African sausage) rolls. I found that I liked pap which is a porridge made from maize and is enjoyed with more flavorful dishes.
We followed that up with a trip to the Cape Town Mall (inside what was originally a post office) where we visited a spice shop and learned where the different spices came from. The shopkeeper also gave us a recipe for Bobotie, a spiced, baked mince dish topped with an egg-based topping. Then Gilbert took us to a stall where we got to try Cape Malay curry, Acar, cheese samosa and a sweet pastry called Koeksister. It was like a sticky doughnut drenched in syrup and laced with cinnamon. It was delicious.
Next, we stopped by at the Eastern Bazaar where the Indian community had settled. There Gilbert had us try the Masala Dosa which is a savory mix of rice and lentils stuffed with potatoes, mustard seeds, chutneys and sambar. As I was originally from Malaysia, which also has a large Indian community, I was familiar with dosa and relished the taste.
Our last stop for the day was not one that Gilbert recommended as it was not local street food. We asked to be taken to a café called Honest Chocolate. We had previously seen an episode of ‘Somebody Feed Phil’ where Honest Chocolate was featured and wanted to try it. It was a small artisanal Bean to Bar café offering delectable handcrafted dark chocolates. On top of the chocolates, we also had a banana muffin with ice-cream and topped with chocolate that is to die for. We highly recommend this place.
Day 4 – Cape of Good Hope and Penguins
We started the day early with another local tour guide (Private Tour: Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point) who also provided transport. Our first stop of the day was Boulder Beach, located near Simon’s Town about a 40-minute drive from our hotel. I was quite excited because I had been looking forward to this trip and meeting the cute inhabitants there – the African penguins.
As we drove along the coast, I was astounded by the beautiful ocean and gorgeous sapphire waters. What took my breath away were the magnificent 15-foot waves that rose and fell like poetry in motion. It was as if I was watching the power of nature in full display. I wish my surfing friends from California could see this.
Boulder Beach is part of the Table Mountain National Park and is a marine-protected area. A wheelchair-friendly boardwalk had been constructed along the shores to allow visitors to view the delightful penguins and, at the same time, ensure they are protected from over-zealous tourists who try to touch them. In fact, touching them was not allowed and I had to warn off a couple of selfie-takers.
The African penguins are relatively small, standing at about 18 inches tall. Their plumage is striking, with a bold black stripe across their white chest and pink patches above their eyes. They appeared unafraid of humans as they waddled their way alongside the boardwalk to get to their nests, oblivious to the numerous cellphones pointing at them. Although we saw hundreds of these adorable creatures, we were told the colony actually numbered in the thousands.
As we watched, a wave surged to the shore and spat out a bunch of flat black bodies on the beach. Then they popped up on their feet, revealing their white bellies and start waddling. It was quite endearing to see them go about their business. I was really happy to learn about the conservation efforts to protect these endangered species.
After this heartwarming experience, we made a stop at the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point. There we were at the southern tip of the African continent. The Cape of Good Hope is a prominent headland that juts out into the point where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Indian Ocean. It was named by the explorer, Bartolomeu Dias, after he successfully navigated the treacherous waters around the African continent.
As we stood at this historical landmark, it is hard to imagine the dangers the ships of old faced as they plied this route of the spice trade. Today, it is a popular tourist destination and I appreciate this fact as John and I took our place behind a long line of visitors waiting to take a photo with the sign that declared we were at ‘the most south-western point of the African continent’. It was a bit cheesy but we were here and, by George, we were going to get that photo.
We drove back to town to visit our last destination of the day – the captivating neighborhood of Bo-Kaap. Just like the photos I’ve seen in magazines, the picturesque town was a kaleidoscope of brightly painted houses. It was a living representation of centuries of heritage and diversity.
The town started in the 18th century when a diverse group of people including slaves from Asia (Indians, Malaysians and Indonesians among others) settled in the area. They brought their cultures, traditions and Islamic faith which over time, became the fabric of Bo-Kaap.
We went into one of the Malaysian homes which had been turned into a small museum depicting how the settlers used to live. It is said that when slavery was abolished the residents painted their drab houses in a spectrum of bright colors to celebrate their freedom. The effect is nothing short of magical as if a sense of joy was bursting out into the streets. It’s definitely an Instagram photo op.
We ended the day with a cup of coffee at Truth Coffee nearby. It is not your everyday café but an immersive experience that transports visitors to the whimsical world of Steampunk. Even the doorman was aptly dressed in that time period as he welcomed us into his world.
Inside, our attention was drawn to a massive contraption made in the steampunk fashion that turned out to be a functional coffee roaster and grinder. We loved the ingenuity of the design and the coffee was excellent. We recommend a visit to Truth Coffee, if not just satisfy your curiosity.
Additional Info
You should also check out our other blogs for the Cape Town area. When in Cape Town you should try to book one of the world’s best restaurants, FYN. And if you have the time, visit Lalibela Game Reserve and the Kichaka Lodge.
Uber worked very well in Cape Town.
The other item to notice when visiting South Africa is that the electricity might come and go (because of rolling blackouts) – so booking a hotel with backup generators is very helpful.