Do not miss this place on any visit to Kyoto – it is not on any tourist maps – even our private local guide did not know of this place. And yet – it is more traditional Japanese than any place you will visit. I came across it by good luck when researching Arashiyama Bamboo Forest.
Nestled away amongst maple and cherry trees in a narrow valley through which winds the old road to the first of the Torii gates to Atago Shrine is a 400 year old tea house. With a setting that is straight out of an old samurai movie, the one story structure has a thatched roof with moss growing on it. The original structure was situated here because of the people who would walk by on their way to and from the shrine. Over the centuries the tea house has added an additional building around back that serves Kyo-kaiseki cuisine and is considered one of the top restaurants for that fine dining experience. For an example of kyo-kaiseki dining see our entry on Takeshigero. But this is about the tea house.
This is not just any tea house – because of the location, history and style, geisha’s have been coming to the tea house over the years, and leaving their calling cards stuck to the door frames and rafters.
It was early autumn and the leaves had not started changing colors, but the weather was very comfortable. Stepping up onto the porch, we were ushered into the open-air tatami room. With a few low wooden tables, we sat on small pillows on the tatami mats, cross-legged. The menu was not in English – but had pictures and so by pointing we managed to order the tea set.
The tea set was matcha tea perfectly foamed, with four flavors of a mochi-like sweetish snack. The had nut powder for dipping the mochi into. I believe the whisking of the matcha creates the foam and is what gets rid of the somewhat bitter taste that matcha can have. It might also be because of the quality of the tea. But unlike going to Starbucks and getting tea, this is a small quantity that is very strong and meant to be savored. Its more like a cup of espresso, but served in more of a saucer than a cup.
The snack was intriguing (and good). I love the way traditional Japan use natural objects in unexpected ways. In this case, instead of a fork, or chopsticks, or even a toothpick, the mochi snack came with a twig with one end sharpened to a point. And it wasn’t a perfectly straight twig but one that looked like the waitress had just gone out to one of the trees, broke off a tiny branch and sharpened it in the back with a knife. It was exquisite!
The tea set cost 900 yen. They offer some other drinks and snacks in the tea house section, and in the restaurant they offer traditional Kyoto cuisine in a kaiseki format. Reservations are recommended for dining. But for the tea house – just wander in from you journey.
This was the perfect interlude to our tour of Kyoto, sitting in a setting that felt unchanged for hundreds of years, relaxing with friends and acquaintences, regaling each other with stories of adventure – and expecting to see geishas and samurai walk down the path and join us at any time.
Additional Information
Hiranoya website.
Address: 16 Senno-cho, Saga Toriimoto, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-861-0359